"Classic makeup and beauty" by Mary Quant - Correcting face shapes
LONG To reduce the length of a long face, use a darker shade of foundation to shade around the top of the forehead, blending it into the hairline. Shade along the jawline, too, and under the cheekbones. Dot a lighter shade just above the cheekbones to highlight, then apply the base foundation, blending well. Reapply the lighter and darker shades if necessary. Brush blusher along the cheekbones but not too far down the face.
SQUARE Soften a square face by using a darker foundation to shade an almost triangular shape on either side of the jaw. Shade the sides of the forehead, too, to help reduce the width of the top part of the face. Dot a lighter shade above the cheekbones to highlight, then apply base foundation, blending well. Reapply the lighter and darker shades if necessary, brush blusher along the cheekbones.